ME TIME
ME AND MY BABY IN PARIS
Baby Paris - Paris with an almost-one-year-old plays a slightly
different tune.
Paris has all the attraction and excitement one could want for a quick getaway
for two, even if the two was not a lover but instead an almost-toddler.
My little off-sider and me were off to the very historic and wonderful City of
Love. We got there on one of the fastest trains in the world, the TGV, after
a not-so-fast connection of two buses and two trains from Brunegg, our small
village of 600 people in Aargau. As it was too stressful to even think about
that schedule with a pram, we went without. Elizabeth, my 11-month-old, was ready
and in-position in the backpack we nicknamed the Red Caboose. The old couple
at the bus stop reeled in shock, 'Paris?' they repeated after they asked where
we were off to. 'Paris', I replied secretly wondering what the next few days
would bring.
Our companions for the three days in Paris were my parents, in transit from West
Africa, and my aunt, a slightly eccentric character with exquisite taste who
has lived in Paris longer than I have lived and who goes everywhere with OJ Simpson,
her dreadlocked poodle.
We stayed at a three star hotel near the Opera House which had a cot and kettle
and friendly staff. It was very central but quiet. Mostly we walked the streets
without direction and absorbed the lively atmosphere of Paris. Even in winter
there was so much to see and both Elizabeth and I were constantly entertained.
One evening, we took a taxi, without child restraints, to the Hemmingway bar
at the Ritz for champagne. The staff competed for Elizabeth's attention, even
playing peek-a-boo across the room from behind the bar. She was in a new world
of tastes, smells and sights and loved the olives. At dinner she even
tried her
first snails. They were cooked and shelled unlike the next variety she is likely
to try.
Wanting to taste some of the famous French cooking, we visited some local restaurants.
One served truffles and lobster and no high chair, one was a large rowdy hall
whose front window was plastered with recommendations from travel guides and
had no high chair and the other was an empty Chinese restaurant with no high
chair. We were starting to see a pattern. At the hotel after playing catch both
mornings, we found a high chair in the luggage cupboard on the last day. Perhaps
we should have asked more, perhaps we should have brought our own.
The most enjoyable restaurant, having Elizabeth with me, was not the 3 star Michelin
restaurant with the lobster but instead was Restaurant Chartier, first opened
in 1896 and which lived up to its claim of being a 'privileged witness to Parisienne
life.' The recommendations from the travel guides were well founded and it didn't
matter if cutlery fell on the floor or that Elizabeth smeared Roquefort sauce
on the table cloth. The waiter took the order down on the paper tablecloth which
then served as the bill. We were lucky to have come at the end of lunch hour
so there was no pressure to vacate our table.
We searched out a tea shop to for a present for my neighbour back in Brunegg,
a tea fanatic. We went via the famous La Fayette's shopping centre's terrace
and delighted at the view over the city's skyline, taking in the famous landmarks
of Arc de Triomphe and Eiffel tower. The pigeons were of course also interesting.
We eventually ended up in Plaz de Madeleine at the very glamorous Fauchon for
afternoon tea. Going in and out of shops is not ideal in winter having to layer
up and with the backpack was especially hard work so we stayed either briefly
or for long periods in shops. As we arrived in Fauchon, Elizabeth was asleep
in the red caboose and posed for a photo as three policemen with their semi-automatic
weapons arrested a man supposedly for shoplifting behind us.
Just as fascinating was the wonderful world of tea we discovered. The smells,
colours and flavours of the tea that lined the walls were amazing. We purchased
an 'Afternoon in Paris' tea which had tiny pink rose buds in it and a 'Happiness
Tea' which small had purples flowers and an especially complex scent. With this,
we ended our short stay in Paris and headed back towards Gare de L'Est.
We travelled the pram-hostile-metro grateful for the Red Caboose, risked fines
with OJ the poodle, marvelled at the mix of people and were yelled at by a madwoman.
Luckily, with my aunt's quick retort of 'get thee to a hairdresser quick', the
fuss subsided.
We reorganised at the excellent baby change area at Gare de l'Est before boarding
the TGV back to Basel.
As Elizabeth slept on the train, I reflected on how challenging the past few
days were at times but at how rewarding they were in many ways. I vowed to visit
another European city I have always wanted to see and to take my little adventurer
with me. 'City of Love' was not quite the 'City for Kids' but with the Red Caboose
and perhaps next time with a portable high chair, it was a great experience.
Fact box
Getting there
TGV Train is cheaper, easier and almost as fast as flying. Arriving in city centre
means no transport needed from the airport and there are no security checks or
check-in delays.
www.tgv-europe.ch
Tickets were 130 Swiss francs each way with specials in February starting from
33 Swiss Francs from Basel. A 'baby' seat was a normal seat for 20 Swiss Francs
extra. It has a smaller amount of window but is near the baggage rack.
Tickets can be booked at any SBB counter or over the SBB hotline and sent to
your home. Good idea to book in advance, especially in holiday season.
Hotel
www.hotel-corona-opera-paris.federal-hotel.com
Important to ask on booking for a cot, kettle if needed and to ask about a high
chair.
Restaurants with French Cuisine
www.restaurant-chartier.com/www/visit - very reasonable prices and suitable for
children.
www.ambroisie-placedesvosges.com- very expensive and not suitable for children.
What
to do
There is so much to see and do in Paris, even in the outdoors. An open top deck
bus is good if the weather suits. It is exciting for children and easy for parents.
The parks and garden on the centre near the Louvre are entertaining and window
shopping is good for the budget.
| KATHLEEN
ETTLIN Born: Newcastle, Australia, 1979 Family: Husband Andrew and daughter Elizabeth (1) Occupation: Journalist |
 |
| My favourite occupation is mum, my least favourite is housewife and the one I am taking a lot to get used to is homemaker. | |
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